Sunrise was amazing but red. Red sky at night, sailor's delight; red sky at morning, sailors take warning. It's more than a cute saying; it's gospel. My weather radio confirmed this: wind and waves increasing during the day, small craft advisory, rain probable. Worst of all, the wind would be against me all day if I stuck to my plan to go north, then northwest through Eggemoggin Reach.My first instinct -- which I followed for a while -- was to break camp and get on the water soon, to beat the bad weather. I actually had the tent almost down, when sanity took over.
I decided I could use a day off, just sitting around on Island 57. But this change in plans would get me home a day later than planned; my friends were liable to call the Coast Guard.
I found the occupants of the good campsite having breakfast on the rocks near their site. A nice young couple with a double kayak, they had no weather radio and no clue how bad the weather was getting. They were planning to leave soon, they said, and head across Eggemoggin Reach, where they would pull out. I asked if they'd mind calling my friends and telling them I'd be a day later than planned. No problem and they did. (John and Becky: If you read this, thanks a lot, it eased several minds. But get yourselves a weather radio.)
So I settled in for the day, had another cup of coffee and walked around the island taking more pictures of this grey day. The change of plans forced a change of attitude, a change of pace. I became more rested, more contemplative.
My walks around the island on this day were quiet and peaceful, despite raging wind and ocassional rain (maybe it was peaceful because I was glad I wasn't on the water!). Island 57 is a magical island, (oh, they're all magical) not as dramatic as some but with intricate woods and a great system of trails.
I took a couple walks that day, punctuated by naps and reading in the tent. The wind was flapping the tent around and I had to tighten the guy ropes a couple times. Still there were gusts that just caved the north side of the tent completely.
During the night, the wind really howled, interrupting my sleep several times. I got up to pee in the middle of the night, put on my Teva sandals (and nothing else) and stumbled out onto the rocks in the dark. It was cold and rainy and the wind was absolutely screaming. I felt a little like King Lear in the storm scene, a little crazy, but also a little clearer than I'd ever been before.